Merino Wool Through My Eyes

Part Three: What Micron Count Never Tells You

In the previous article, we talked about what micron count can tell us.

It measures the average diameter of a fibre.

It gives us an indication of softness, comfort against the skin and, to some extent, the flexibility of the finished felt.

These are important characteristics.

But they are only the beginning.

Some of the most important qualities of wool cannot be expressed by a single number.

One micron is always one micron, regardless of whether we are measuring Merino wool, alpaca, cashmere or any other animal fibre.

The unit of measurement never changes.

What changes is the fibre itself.

This is an important distinction.

People sometimes compare different fibres by saying that, for example, 22-micron alpaca feels like 19-micron Merino.

I understand why this comparison exists, but technically it is not correct.

Twenty-two microns always means twenty-two microns.

What changes is not the measurement, but the way the fibre is built.

The surface of the fibre, its resilience, its structure, the presence of coarser guard hairs, the length of the staple and the way it has been processed all influence how the material feels in our hands.

That is why two completely different fibres with the same micron count may never feel exactly the same.

Micron count allows us to compare fibre diameter.

It does not give us a complete picture of the tactile qualities of the material.

The same is true within Merino itself.

One number cannot tell us everything.

Micron count does not tell us how long the fibres are.

It does not tell us how uniform the fleece is.

It tells us nothing about the natural crimp, the resilience of the fibre, the quality of the breeding programme or the way the wool has been scoured, combed and prepared before it reaches our studio.

It cannot predict how quickly the fibres will migrate during felting.

It cannot guarantee a beautifully smooth surface.

Nor can it promise a strong, well-integrated felt.

Perhaps most importantly, a lower micron count does not automatically mean a better wool.

Sometimes a very fine Merino is exactly what a project requires.

At other times, a slightly stronger fibre produces a more stable structure, a more interesting texture or simply a better felt for the purpose we have in mind.

One of the most valuable lessons I have learned over the years is that I no longer judge wool by its micron count alone.

I judge it by its behaviour.

Throughout my work I have used Merino wools carrying exactly the same label—19 microns—yet they behaved like completely different materials.

One opened effortlessly into long, even layers.

Another felt springier and more resistant in the hands.

One bonded with silk almost immediately.

Another required noticeably more work before the fibres began to migrate through the fabric.

One produced an exceptionally calm, smooth surface.

Another developed far more texture during shrinkage.

None of these differences were visible on the label.

They only revealed themselves once the wool met water, movement and time.

That is when the true character of a fibre begins to appear.

Over the years, I have also worked with Merino produced in both Australia and New Zealand.

Although these countries are geographically close and both are recognised for producing exceptional Merino wool, I would never describe their fibres as identical.

At the same time, I would also avoid saying that Australian wool always behaves one way and New Zealand wool another.

That would be an oversimplification.

Within every country there are different bloodlines, different farms, different climates, different processing mills and different manufacturing methods.

Even within the same country, two producers may create fibres with remarkably different characteristics.

What I can say with confidence is something much simpler.

The manufacturer matters.

With experience, we begin to recognise not only the micron count but also the character of a particular producer’s wool.

We remember how it drafts.

How it migrates.

How it shrinks.

How it behaves when combined with silk, viscose or other fibres.

Gradually, practical experience becomes just as valuable as the number printed on the label.

This is the moment when we stop choosing wool by numbers alone.

Instead, we begin learning the personality of the material itself.

And for me, that is where the real understanding of wool begins.

To be continued…

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  If you are looking for Merino Wool, explore materials of my trusted supplier - DHG.